Welcome to our Hair Consultations column. Tony Chaar is a celebrity hairstylist and the owner of Tony Chaar Salon in Toronto, Canada. To request an online hair consultation, follow the instructions here.
Q: Hello, Tony. I want to liven up my hair and my look, but I need some help with figuring out the best colour for me. I have always had dark (brown-black) hair and pale skin.
Recently, I got tired of looking like a vampire, and dreamed of being blonde. So I had the whole thing dyed a medium brown and loaded with highlights.
I liked the change, but I was not completely satisfied with how orange and bronzey it came out.
My hair is naturally thick, wavy/curly, and frizzy. I just want to know my options and what would look best on me. Please help! — Dina
A: Dina, thank you for sending in your request for a hair consultation with me. I think that you definitely suit the lighter hair. So I totally agree with you about going lighter.
But here’s the problem. The tone that you have right now is too red for your skin.
That is what you’re hating about it. Your skin and hair are fighting, and the hair will always win!
I think that you should stay light, but go to a cooler tone. Your skin suits more of an ashier colour. It’s that copper pigment that has to go.
You would look so natural with an ash brown or dirty blonde as your base:
You could even do a little bit of a JLo look, but on the cool side:
Correcting Your Base Colour
Fixing your base to get rid of the copper will be quite a bit of work.
You need to ask your hairdresser to keep your hair at the same level that you have now, but to add a toner at the very end to turn it into an ashier tone. You’re probably a level six or seven right now, and you have to go to a level seven double ash. Your hairstylist will know what that means.
That will probably hit it on the nail, but if it doesn’t, your hairdresser will have to use another toner on top of the double ash. This is not to darken the colour, though—you need to keep it at a level seven, just turn it towards a cooler tone.
⚠️ If we’re being really technical, I recommend cracking (lightening) your eyebrows as well. Right now, they’re too dark. Your hairdresser will probably have to use a level 8-1 ash plus a 10-volume peroxide for about 10 minutes just to crack them by half a shade. This will help your look to be in sync.
I would steer away from adding highlights right now, because there’s a lot of work that needs to be done to fix your base. It might take two or three visits for your hairdresser to get it right.
But later on, you could add some highlights. They should be warmer, like a golden, sun-kissed look:
Cut and Colour Care
For your cut, ask for soft, long layers, which will work whether you wear it curly or straighten it. You look good with the straight hair.
But you need to moisturize so that your blow-dry doesn’t frizz up. I recommend using deep conditioning masks on a regular basis:
Briogeo Be Gentle, Be Kind Avocado + Kiwi Mega Moisture Superfood Mask
Living Proof No Frizz Intense Moisture Mask
Kérastase Discipline Maskeratine
This will help you to be able to wear your hair down and have it look smooth, not frizzy.
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