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The Best Cuts for Fine, Frizzy, Wavy Hair

Stay away from texturizing.
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Welcome to our Hair Consultation column. To request an online hair consultation from celebrity hairstylist Bill Angst, follow the instructions here.

Q: Hairstylists always want to chop my hair off and layer and texture it like there is no tomorrow. I've just had a horrendous haircut, so this picture is from before the big disaster.

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Sharon wants a cut that that won't make her frizz-prone hair go poufy.

I'm wondering if I'm wearing my hair wrong, seeing as every time I go to a new salon, they seem to have the same vision for my tresses: chin-length and heavily layered on the sides. Unfortunately, all this does for my thick but fine, frizzy and wavy hair (which doesn't dry into a nice curl) is turn it into a big pouf-ball. I end up hating my hair until I can grow it out again. As no one seems to be able to cut this hair properly, I grow out a lot of cuts—doesn't matter if I go to an expensive salon or a no-name one. I haven't had a nice wash-and-go cut since I was in my 20s.

I don't dye my hair (yet) and have tons of hair, so it has the appearance of being very thick, though the texture is fine. It's wavy but shrinks and becomes frizzy when dry. I don't mind doing a little work in the morning, but I don't want to spend hours blow drying, flat-ironing or curling my hair. While I know I'm over 50, I don't think us older women necessarily have to have the typical old lady, pageboy cut just because we are getting older.

Anyway, right now I'm a little 'scissor-shy.' At the last cut, at an expensive salon, they ended up taking off three inches, put tons of layers in the sides, and chopped off my bangs and thinned them out with the back end of a pair of scissors. Now I've ended up with an unflattering, frizzy, overly layered cut. I am desperate for some advice or a possible fix, so that I can feel at least semi-attractive while I grow this mess out. Thanks, and look forward to a response. — Sharon

A: Sharon, I really like your hair in this photo. If this is your natural movement, you have gold...

If I may suggest, here is a longer length and a possible colour idea, which would be fun for you to play with.

Keri Russell at the 2008 premiere of 'Bedtime Stories'.

In this photo, the lighter tips and added length would give you the contemporary look that I think you are seeking. Also the movement. 

As you can see, her roots are a bit fuzzy—nothing wrong with this. The lighter ends show off the natural movement of the hair.

At a longer length, you should have more blunt ends with long layers. The length and weight of your hair will help control the craziness that short layers create. 

Anne Hathaway at the 2008 Women in Hollywood Tribute.

Stay away from texturizing, thinning or razor cutting, because all of these are the culprits behind fuzz, for your hair type.

I suggest using a molding paste when your hair is still wet to smooth down frizz. It also helps trap in the moisture. After applying it, use a fine-tooth comb to smoothen your cuticle and comb in the direction of the desired style.
Then gently scrunch your ends towards your roots, trying not to disturb the fine comb effect. Doing this, you will promote as much natural wave or curl as your hair has to offer.

Aly Michalka at the 2013 Teen Vogue Young Hollywood party.


Bill Angst is one of Canada’s top celebrity hairstylists and the owner of Angst Salon at 240 Queen Street East in Toronto. Call 416-360-5942 to book an appointment.